I finally got to tick one off my bucket list! And I’m just glad to come out of it in one piece with just a few bruises on my knee. =)
Life is too short to be overcome by fears and worries. So I guess it’s about time to live life the way it should be. Last Saturday I’ve finally rose above my fear of sea swimming without a life vest (yes I’m proud of that :p). I’m such a wuss really and huge waves scare the heck out of me. But in Surfing 101, you’ve got to learn to embrace the huge waves and soon you’ll be able to ride it smoothly.
In Sebay, La Union my friends and I dared to take on the challenge.
We each had our surfing instructors and for 1 hour at P400 only (which they guaranteed to return if we failed to stand up), my guide holds my life.
1st we were taught about surfing terms like long board and its parts – nose and tail, among other things.
Safety instructions were:
1. When we have to jump off the board, we should jump at the back of the board or on its side. Never in front.
2. If we get toppled over, we had to cover our heads to guard it from the possible blow of the board.
3. Once we part with our board at sea and we’re all settled, we should pull on the cord that links our ankles to the board so it won’t be tossed and turned all around us.
With all those warnings said, I just had to go and see for myself what they meant – I experienced (unintentionally) the don’t s of 1 & 2.
I jumped in front to have the board hit my hips. (Good job to me :P)
On the next, I fell over and the board crashed on top of my head. Experienced some wardrobe malfunction so I just hid under the board while fixing my stuff. Since there were waves the board kept hitting my head so I got dizzy again and again. Hello stars under water.
Now you see that surfing is really a feat. Once you get hold of these 3s’s you’re sure to claim this achievement as well 🙂
3S of Surfing 101
1. Swing– Once our guide gives the signal to get ready, from lying on our chest position, we had to swing our right leg up with our right foot against our inner left thigh.
2. Stand – Draw your hand up to your chest and push with all your might. At this point, your right foot should be lying flat on the board, and your left leg should be positioned in front of your right.
The instructors were really good. They went over the steps with us thoroughly until we could coordinate it all in one swift movement. So don’t worry they’ll show you what I mean.
Now that you’ve stood up comes another challenging task – balance.
Lucky you if you get it on the first try like Jason. But to us normal people, it takes a number of falling, picking yourself up, and heaving yourself up on top of the board to ride the rhythm of the waves.
It is a lot similar with how we should approach life. The more you try, fail, and yet continue to get on your feet, the closer you are to finding your balance.
3. Surf – Now that you’ve swung and stood up comes the best part – surfing and riding the waves. The instructor will give you a little push to get momentum from the waves and then you’re on your way.
I remember what Julz said, “surfing is a matter of freeing and emptying your mind.” Truly it is. I noticed that the more I thought about my fear or that I am pressured to stand up, the more I couldn’t find my balance. But once I focused on that moment alone and freed myself from my fears and doubts, I was able to become one with the sea and glide through waves smoothly.
It’s a matter of reaching your zen zone – that inner peace (credits to Kung Fu Panda). You’ve got to let loose, and let your mind run free. And soon enough riding the waves would really be a breeze.
At first I didn’t think I could stand up. I even had a hard time getting on my board. As I peered left and right, I saw my surf mates on their board, poised to ride. But there I was, struggling to carry my weight and my instructor probably growing impatient and wanting to give me the lift I badly needed. It took a while for me to get on top of my board.
But after that first fall, it didn’t take much coaxing for me to get back on it. I was determined to stand up. Wardrobe malfunction or not, ab cramps and all, I just had to do it.
The moment I was able to do it truly it was the sweetest surf ride I’ve had in my life.
Amidst the noise of the sea and the crashing of waves, I found the balance I needed and experienced the most peaceful connection with myself.
So here’s to my surf mates who have embraced the waves and encountered inner peace. Congratulations guys we did it! 😀
If you still don’t know what I’m talking about, you’ve got to try surfing – also to cross one off your bucket list 🙂
Sebay Surf Resort
San Juan, La Union